Roma – the final chapter

Sitting here in Campo di Fiori reflecting on our time in Rome. Firstly RIP to Steve Jobs, the Apple visionary who changed so much in the modern world we live in. I am writing this blog on a trusty Mac book pro, happily connected to the net. Our barista at the wonderful Barnum café, when asked how he was, replied, “Disappointed”. This is always his reply but today he meant it. It was the death of Steve Jobs and the worldwide impact on all of us-even those who use other platforms-as the inventiveness forced everyone to up the ante in the idea of technology and how it could be harnessed. In Rome you are quite often in awe-from the Roman era, through to the Renaissance and beyond. The city breathes its antiquity. The creative genius that was mustered to impel this city forward and to help sustain the idea of Rome. Many people have asked who are the Bernini’s, the Michelangelo’s, and the Raphael’s of the modern world. In many ways you would have to say the people of this level of genius people the technology universe and Steve Jobs was at the summit. So many of us owe him so much for allowing us to unleash whatever potential we have.

There have been so many highlights over the last few days in Rome. Some gastronomical, some aesthetic, some emotional. We have eaten at some truly delightful places-indeed it will be difficult to return to a world where you cannot walk to your destinations. Although the cobblestones do wear you out. Roman woman of course do not have this problem and can walk gracefully in high heels without missing a beat. Enoteca Romana Provincia serves food all supplied from the region. Meats, vegetables, salad and wine sourced locally and all prepared onsite. The freshness and flavour superb. Al Bric is a stones throw away from our apartment is an intimate, beautifully appointed restaurant with an exceptional wine list.  On the walls are wine maker lids from all over the world-one being Opus One from California; we have had the pleasure of drinking. They freshly make all their breads and pastas and you can tell the difference immediately. Their Amatriciana was delicious. We have seen a movie being made on the streets behind the Piazza Navonna. All lights and extras, a concourse condition Fiat 500, crew, director, and actors. We have enjoyed finding some of the local haunts, always more interesting, where as an outsider you are one amongst equals.

And of course we have to talk about the art. From the magnificence of the Galleria Borghese, quite simply the best small museum in the world. And by a quirk of fate we were allowed to stay in the museum indefinitely. This is a building to be awe struck in. The Bernini’s and Caravaggio’s alone are priceless, before getting to the Cannova sculpture, the Roman mosaics and sculpture, the ceiling murals and the wall decoration. And this is not talking of the house itself sitting in a park setting. Villa Farnesina, in Trastevere, is a Palazzo on a monumental piece of land by the banks of the Tiber. It’s history is rich, as of course have the owners been, and the legacy is the building but more importantly a series of magnificent Raphael murals based on the myth of Cupid and Psyche. The paintings adorn the roof and walls of the loggia that is now enclosed to protect the work. The buildings and gardens have been extensively refurbished over the last few years. The palazzo was originally built for a banker, Agostino Chigi and was later purchased by the Farnese family.

We were able to see an exhibition-Todo O Nada- of Mario Testino’s fashion and personal photography in a converted palazzo on the Corso. This extraordinary building has been converted into a gallery. The exhibition is a celebration of the beautiful, from the woman photographed to the sumptuous backgrounds and the exquisite clothes. Testino has an ability to relax his subjects and to create images full of irony and strength. The exhibition was designed beautifully with large prints and deep brown walls. After the Borghese it was so empty! Mostly we had each print to ourselves, which allowed plenty of time to absorb the qualities of each image. You could probably say photography is sculpture of light and this shows what is possible.

In another Palazzo there was a retrospective of the celebrated American painter Georgia O’Keefe with photographic images from her husband Alfred Stieglitz. This was an exhibition celebrating the modernist movement as well as the southwestern landscape O’Keefe revered so much and which became such a rich vein of inspiration.

We spent time in Santa Maria de Popolo admiring the qualities of the Caravaggio’s. This church with its array of personal chapels is a serene oasis in the sea of people and commerce outside the doors. Caravaggio’s use of light was so unusual compared to his contemporaries and 500 years later the paintings are still captivating.

Walking at night and in the morning Rome is wonderfully empty of people and the shops are closed. The Vatican at night is virtually silent and empty. Standing on the colonnade stones and seeing the columns as one reminds you of Bernini’s genius. The day is a full spectrum of life and you are a part of this throng of humanity but at night you can reflect on the experience of being in such a unique place.

Arrivederci!