London Calling

The last night in Rome we drank champagne on the cobblestones outside our flat. There was some beer excess to requirements so we gave it to our next-door neighbors who took chairs outside every night. There was a chorus of grazie, prego. The night air was sweet and warm and the sky turned from a rich sky blue to ultramarine. We watched the passers by, the vespas, the shop owners and luxuriated in the final night here.

The first day of inclement weather in Rome was fortunately the day of travel to London. To reach London there was a total of 2 cab rides, two trains rides, one bus ride and one plane trip. Two customs and 4 passport checks later we arrived in London. There needs to be an apology to Heathrow. Our earlier trip through Heathrow, only to transfer to Amsterdam was awful. Clearing customs and immigration was fast, efficient and polite. We caught the express to Paddington in record quick time. Our cab driver was from east London-it is always a pleasant experience how knowledgeable and friendly London cabbies are. The drive from Paddington to Chelsea bought back memories and is a reminder of England’s blending of old and new. We went past Hyde Park, the National Geographic Society building with the sculptures of Livingstone and Scott, the Natural History Museum with it s new glass façade, the Michelin building and onto Chelsea with its rows of Georgian and Victorian terraces and gated parks.

The first days in London have been full of walking and getting acquainted to our new accommodation. We are in the Chelsea Cloisters on Sloane Avenue. The apartment is tiny but beautifully appointed and clean and from the sixth floor windows affords views over the chimney pots. The area cannot be beaten for convenience-next door to a Sainsbury’s, a dry cleaner and laundry and five minutes to Kings Road, the Victoria and Albert Museum, South Kensington Station, and a bevy of pubs and restaurants. We have eaten a true variety of food-Dim Sum, Lebanese, Italian deli (authentic) and diner. We are truly missing the magnificent coffee available at Barnum Cafe in Rome but are enjoying the range of different food. We have made up for missing out on coffee by drinking the wonderful Bitter beer. The nights are considerably cooler than Rome so there is a need to be better prepared when venturing out.

In our wanders we went into Northcote Gallery to look at the beautiful paintings by Gil Rocca-atmospheric oils of London parks at night. We were fortunate to wander in as we were able to have a great discussion with the curators there and not only did they let us know Art London was on they gave us free tickets as well. We traversed Kings Road and headed to Art London after first stopping at a photographic exhibition. The exhibition Decca 1962-71 was a series of prints made of the Rolling Stones by all of the iconic rock photographers. To the sound of the Stones being played LOUD in the background-as they should-we were able to see these beautiful vintage prints.

Art London is a major fair where all major galleries bring pieces from their highest profile or most known artists to sell and show. The venue in the grounds of the Royal Chelsea Hospital was vast. There was so much to see and so much talent on display. Richard Whadcock stands out-multiple glazings and muted colours. The grounds of the Hospital are extraordinary. There is a cemetery attached which we walked through. As we were leaving a man in a red tunic and black hat and resplendent in medals came over to talk to us. “ You missed the most important grave”. It turns out the cemetery is for British army pensioners. Bill is a resident of the home here and takes on the role of tour guide. You need to receive a British military pension and have no dependents to be able to stay. He showed us the oldest grave from the 1600”s as well as Dennis Thatcher’s. There are places for 400 veterans in this most regal of nursing homes.

The Victoria and Albert Museum is one of the great museums in the world. It is impossible to digest what is on offer in one visit. It can make you feel a little insignificant seeing the work created by such brilliant individuals. The Jewellery area alone covering 1500 years of creation is breathtaking. The complexity and beauty of the items and the importance culturally awe inspiring. And this is only one spot. There is an area covering all the major religions and their use of gold and silver for their artifacts. The great part of the V and A is it is a teaching museum as well and describes the process of achieving the results. The antiquities are a sight to see-you may think we have had enough of antiquities after being in Rome and Berlin but there is always one more column to admire. The visiting exhibition is on modern British design and the use of advanced 3d computer applications to help in the construction process.