Saturday 22 November 2014

Sebastiao Salgado's Genesis Exhibition and the Terra Firma project

There is always something you regret not doing or not acquiring on  a trip. In this instance it was a signed copy of the book Genesis by the legendary photographer Sebastiao Salgado. I have had to buy my own unsigned copy. Sigh....The book and exhibition Genesis is the culmination of eight years of work. Genesis is the third long-term series on global issues by world-renowned photographer Sebastião Salgado, following Workers (1993) and Migrations (2000). The exhibition draws together more than 200 spectacular black-and-white photographs of wildlife, landscapes, seascapes, and indigenous peoples—raising public awareness about the pressing issues of environment and climate change. The exhibition at the International Centre for Photography in NYC is an overwhelming  experience as most of his exhibitions are. This though was a major break in the tradition of work that Salgado has produced since first picking up a camera at the age of 26. He has photographed much of what is bleak about humanity.




"You have to understand that he came to the end of something. He came to the heart of darkness; the hell had really gotten to him and I don't think he was able to live. He may not have found the way out of it if it hadn't been for his new encounter with nature. It was a redemption. Planting rainforest, reanimating dead ground, pulled him out of the terrible hole he was in and he reinvented himself as well as his photography."

The works on display are images made across all the continents and celebrate the almost 50 percent of the world still untrammelled by human intervention. You cannot but be impressed by the extraordinary diversity of our planet and of course the need for us to be part of maintenance of this remarkable place we live on. Selgado is an inspiration as a photographer and more importantly as a humanist aware of the bonds we have to our planet. It is interesting in this time of rapid centralisation into cities and the city as the major creator of ideas due to the density of people. But this idea of us living cheek by jowl in cities separates us from much of the planet we inhabit and also the environmental cost of mass consumption. I am of course as happy as the next person to be surrounded and to wear beautiful things made by the most creative of us, but we do need to enquire as to the sustainability of our desires. 


The Terra Firma project started when Sebastiao took over his parents ranch in Brazil. It had been increasingly deforested and in his lifetime most of the animals had deserted the property. In this inspirational project he set about creating a natural wonder by reforesting the ranch. The results are simply amazing and for the optimists among us show what is possible. In a remarkably short time the barren, featureless, overworked land has become an ecosystem abundant in plant and animal life.

The documentary by Wim Wenders and Sebastiao's son Juliano on his work "the Salt of the Earth" is a wonderful introduction to his photography and philosophy on photography and our planet. 


I have been fortunate to have seen Salgado's work for decades and his involvement in the extraordinary Magnum Photography agency. Anyone with the slightest interest in photography should acquaint themselves with this group of the most talented and tenacious photographers. Their work is beyond superlatives.





We are indeed standing on the shoulders of giants. Listen to Sebastiao Salgado's TED talk. 


It is interesting in this time of political deniability of our responsibility to pass onto future generations some unspoilt nature. Visiting the Natural History Museum in NYC recently I was taken by Theodore Roosevelt's passion for the preserving of our natural heritage. He signed off on the creation of 5 National parks and 150 National Forest areas. 

“To waste, to destroy our natural resources, to skin and exhaust the land instead of using it so as to increase its usefulness, will result in undermining in the days of our children the very prosperity which we ought by right to hand down to them amplified and developed.”
Theodore Roosevelt


Monday 17 November 2014

NYC-Fall 2014

New York City. What a place. You are in danger of acquiring Stendhal Syndrome- the psychosomatic disorder that causes rapid heartbeat, dizziness, fainting, confusion and even hallucinations when an individual is exposed to an experience of great personal significance. It is something that will affect everyone to some extent when they get to NYC. There is just so much to do and see and watch and drink and eat and just get your head around…My stay began with the cab ride to mid town and after some confusion as to where I was actually wanting to go I was deposited on the sidewalk with a little over an hour to kill before meeting up with a friend. Fortunately it is NY and there was a bar directly under the apartment where I could wile away the time, drinking some fine Brooklyn lager and eating some very tasty bar food. It was the perfect reintroduction to the close proximity of everything in Manhattan. Within the block of the apartment there were numerous restaurants, bars, shopping, hotels, cafes, Laundromats not to mention Central Park-that most beautiful urban forest. Staying in Midtown is the New York of cinema and TV and Mid Century architecture. North by Northwest and Madmen assail you by the second. Drop into the Plaza or the St Regis for a martini-and to look at the extraordinary Maxfield Parish mural. Saunter to Carnegie Hall and see where the photographer Bill Cunningham lived, and to imbibe an old-fashioned cocktail and cigar at he Carnegie Lounge. Wander over to Park and see the iconic Lever House. On the way back drop into Little Collin Street café on Lexington for an espresso or flat white and fresh pastry. My first day here I walked from 56th Street through to the Lower East Side by way of Midtown, Flat Iron and Gramercy, Union Square Park, Washington Park, West Village and the East Village. On the way back Chelsea. You quickly realise the neighbourhoods are totally unalike. I spent part of everyday traversing a different part of Manhattan. Upper West Side, Upper East Side with their extraordinary houses and architecturally astounding apartment blocks-one in particular in the Upper West Side built in 1913 was designed by J E R Carpenter and each apartment is soundproof. It has been in demand from musicians ever since as a place to live and work. He is considered the creator of the modern apartment. These apartment buildings are beautiful. Hells Kitchen is the latest reinvention-there are numerous restaurants, bars and cafes here. Rex on 10th avenue is a lovely small café where you can pull up a chair, or in my case a milk crate and spend some time off your feet and watching the world pass by. East Village still holds onto to its Bohemian character, although it is rapidly changing. Manhattan property has become frighteningly expensive. 
The quality of entertainment is just inspiring. Over the course of my stay I was fortunate to see the Masterworks performance by the NYC Ballet at the Lincoln Centre and to watch Wendy Whelan’s second last performance, Carmen at the Met, Cabaret in the studio 54 building with Michelle Williams and Allen Cumming-with table tickets in the Kit Kat Club, Hedwig and the Angry One Inch with Michael C Hall from Dexter fame in irrepressible form, Chicago, Listen up Phillip at the Lincoln Film Centre with the director Alex Ross and Jason Swartzmen in attendance, John Waters in Through a Glass Onion at the Union Square Theatre, the Ace Hotel where there is music every night in the foyer, the Bowery Ballroom, the Mercury Lounge, the Village Vanguard, Blue Note, the Sebastiao Salgado Exhibition Genesis at the International Centre for Photography, the Thomas Moran and William Turner etchings and chromolithographs at the New York Library, the Cubists at MOMA to name a few. The walk to Cabaret took all of 10 minutes. The magical vistas along the avenues and their iconic names-5th Avenue, Madison Avenue, Park Avenue, Avenue of the Americas. When you visit NYC there are some must see places-the Empire State Building, The Flatiron Building, Central Park in Fall, Grand Central Station, the Chrysler Building, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, The Woolworth Building, Tiffany's, Shopping on Madison Avenue, Museum Mile, The Frick, The Gugenheim, Broadway, eating at the bar, The Rockerfeller Center, The Natural History Museum, the United Nations Building, the extraordinary Tudor City Apartment Buildings, the view to the Statue of Liberty from the Staten Island Ferry-and it only grows from here. On this trip I ventured into Brooklyn for parties, dinners and music. Brooklyn alone would be the fourth biggest city in the USA. A train trip upstate to Poughkeepsie and the enormous converted rail-bridge across the Hudson. The views to the hills and the colours of NY in fall as the trees begin to change.
Eating and drinking in Manhattan you are spoilt for choice. By far the most small bars and restaurants are in West and East Village, Soho and the Lower East side. This is an area you can wander around and explore-it is intimate and mostly free of the sea of people making their way on the avenues. Soho and the Lower East Side are alive with smaller boutiques and new designers and artists. Orchard Street in the Lower East Side has over 10 new art galleries. I was fortunate to have some great people to hang out with and to share their NYC with me. It made the trip a fantastic time. Thankyou. 

If you enjoy Midtown like I do and have ever watched Breakfast at Tiffany's you could do worse than read the fabulous Fifth Avenue, 5am by Sam Wasson. It is an exquisite look into New York Midtown and the social complexities of the 1950's and into the private lives of Truman Capote and Audrey Hepburn. My apartment was a gentle stroll from all of Holly Golightly's New York. Even better,  go to Tiffany's on 5th Avenue at 5am-the first scene on the first day of shooting. Make a date when walking back from some bars on the Lower East Side like I did.

"So smart and entertaining it should come with its own popcorn" 

Below is studio 54 waiting to be seated for Cabaret. The floor was an absolutely brilliant place to see the performance.




Some other places sampled-there are really too many to name

Viceroy Hotel Bar-29th floor with views over Central Park and Midtown complete with mohair rugs for the chilly evenings
The Campbell Apartment Bar-Grand Central Station
Hudson Hotel-up the escalator and through the foyer to a great bar/lounge where you can sit in front of the fire and relax.
Casalulla Restaurant and Wine Bar Hells Kitchen
Betony Restaurant
Pizzarte
Joes Shanghai
Quality Italian
Blue Hill-Washington Place
Mahmouns Falafel-McDougall Street
The Dutch-Prince Street
Mangia Deli and Cafe
Lillies Bar-great before or after a show 49th and 8th
Little Collins Café-Lexington Avenue
Orchard Street-Lower East Side
One Fifty one Bar-Lower East Side
Ace Hotel
Union Square Café
Trattoria Del Arte-classic Italian after a show
Almar Tapas Restaurant Dumbo Brooklyn
Attaboy Cocktail Bar Lower East Side
The Dove Parlour-Thompson Street
Schillers Liquor Bar-Lower East Side
Temple Bar-NoHo for a quiet cocktail
Zibetto Café-a 3 minute walk from my apartment-stand up Italian style
Blue Bird Coffee Shop-East Village
Gimme Coffee-Mott Street
Rex Café-10th Avenue
Keste Pizza-Napolitan Pizza Bleeker Street
Warby and Parker glasses at a reasonable price-named after characters in a Jack Kerouac novel
Worth and Worth Hats-chat to Orlando Palacios for some ideas on the best hat for you-he has a great story 

 One belongs to New York instantly, one belongs to it as much in five minutes as in five years. 

Tom Wolfe



View to Manhattan from Dumbo

Santa Monica-some musings

The 2014 USA fall trip has again surpassed all expectations. LA, San Francisco, Larkspur, Mill Valley, Sonoma and New York City have all provided a richness of travel and experience, both celebrating the epic history of these locations and the fanciful way the US has of reinventing itself. I have been mightily impressed by the improvement in food and coffee and the embracing of fresh ingredients. California in particular does grow virtually everything. When you combine this gastronomic play with the superb attention to detail in design then you create a wonderful ambience. The USA is no doubt still grappling with the long-term effects of the GFC and of course the very large wealth gap.

Los Angeles has changed so very much in the time I have been visiting. Firstly, the air quality is astounding. My first trip to LA the hills were obscured by a tobacco brown haze. Now the skies are ultra marine blue and the visibility razor sharp.

The Viceroy is an iconic hotel in Santa Monica-fantastically well-designed with a wonderful enclosed pool and restaurant area. Mid Century cool at its finest. You are indeed oblivious of the major roads that surround the hotel. This trip was spent in the confines of Santa Monica-beach, pool, coffee, walking, drawing, eating, drinking and reading. The weather was warm, the hotel sumptuous and cool. The pool and cabana areas inviting as a siren. While I was in Santa Monica I read the brilliant book by Canberra author Mark Renshaw "The Snow Kimono". A philosophical puzzle according to the Guardian review. A most intriguing, thoughtful and totally engrossing novel. Bravo! Sitting on the balcony reading and overlooking the Santa Monica beach, bathed in golden sunshine.

"But, much more provocatively, this could also be a case of the novelist abandoning linear, objective-driven logic for more open-ended philosophical structures, raising the question of what aesthetic progression we are heading towards, what kind of humanity we are seeking as a society, and what kind of moral constructions we wish to exist."



Viceroy Hotel Santa Monica

some places sampled in Santa Monica

Cast Restaurant-in the Viceroy Hotel. Eating outside enveloped by the LA warmth. Great fresh food and atmosphere. Probably the best jet lag cure known.
Bar at the Viceroy-fantastic bar tenders and an excellent variety of whisky. Great entertainment Friday and Saturday night
Tar and Roses-just a fantastic restaurant. Food, design, service, ambience.
Dogtown Coffee-excellent quality both coffee and breakfast, a stone throw from the hotel. A perfect beginning for each day
My Father’s Office-ambient bar and burger place-perhaps the best burger in LA
Blue Taco-superb food overlooking the beach
Abbot and Kinney Boulevard-a paradise for the hipster in all of us. Food, wine, shopping, chilling, ogling
The Tasting Kitchen-food, wine, cocktails
Gjelina-excellent food, service and wonderful design on Abbott and Kinney Street. Make a reservation. No tomato (ketchup) sauce, soda or changes to the menu! How good is that. They know their food
Santa Monica beach-walk, ride or skateboard from SM to Venice Beach. A beautiful beach neighbourhood.  A kaleidoscope of humanity

Uber taxi app-brilliant!

the Venice Canals-So when do I move in?