postscript

The last days in London were stunning. Beautiful clear, warm, still days. The sky a deep polarized blue. We enjoyed wandering in the enormous Hyde Park and the smaller and exquisite St James Park. Our time in Hong Kong on the way home was relaxing. It was a dumpling festival or perhaps a festival of dumplings. From the Hutong room to the Taiwanese inspired Din Tai Fing and finally the wonderful Tang Court-a two star Michelin restaurant in the Langham Hotel. It appears you can never, ever have too many dumplings. Hong Kong has the most extraordinary level of service and without doubt one of the best airports in the world. From kerbside, checked in, cleared customs and security in 15 minutes! The airport is efficient, clean, and spacious and the staff reserved and polite. 

“One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.” Henry Miller

All things must end and so has our adventure. There are so many things to remember and to slowly reflect on. Back at home and looking over the garden it seems a dream. Every place and experience stays with you but as a memory. What is the reason we yearn for the unknown? To be thrown into the world and for things to be unfamiliar enough that you never take them for granted and to pinch yourself continuously to remind you of this fact. How do we value freedom of movement and of thought? People often ask what was the highlight. It is hard to respond as so many things would rank as the best-waking in a new place, eating among new and old friends, the joy of observation.

But maybe I will leave it to Cesare Pavese to answer

“Traveling is a brutality. It forces you to trust strangers and to lose sight of all that familiar comfort of home and friends. You are constantly off balance. Nothing is yours except the essential things – air, sleep, dreams, the sea, the sky – all things tending towards the eternal or what we imagine of it.”

hk gallery

The Architecture of Happiness

“When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life”

-Samuel Johnson

It would be fair to say London held some trepidation as a traveler after the disturbances in the city recently. London continues to evolve as a city and offers so much. Sitting in the Chelsea eyrie among the detritus of a week in London we are left to reflect on the myriad of surprises that passed our way. Where to begin is the hardest. There has been classical music recitals, philharmonic orchestras, architecture, ballet, art in abundance, cinema, gardens, food, fashion, coffee and wine.

Alain de Bouton argues in his book, The Architecture of Happiness, “belief in the significance of architecture is premised on the notion that we are, for better and for worse, different people in different places – and on the conviction that it is architecture’s task to render vivid to us who we might ideally be “. He asks the question “ what is a beautiful building?”

The first of our many forays into the London artscape was to visit Panorama-a retrospective of Gerhard Richter at the Tate Modern. On the way we were surprised to find an Almshouse-still operating-although on borrowed time it appears. The Almshouse, next to the Tate Modern, is a medieval establishment for the poor and very similar to the Hofes in Berlin and Hofjes in Amsterdam. Among the towering new buildings of steel, glass and unusual shapes stood a square of beautiful stone cottages surrounding a garden.

The Tate Modern is a forbidding building. Previously a PowerStation it has been transformed into the most extraordinary modern art space imaginable. As you walk down the enormous concrete ramp into the stygian darkness you are surrounded by the enormous physical presence of the original structure and the conversion of the interior into multiple levels of galleries. The painter Gerhard Richter is a modern enigma and has created a brilliant and diverse range of work. There are 13 rooms of paintings-each addressing a certain stage of his career. The work is all to do with how we see and Richter poses questions about the correlation between perception and understanding. There are paintings using photography as a reference, and then figurative work using Titian, Vermeer, and Caspar David Friedrich as a reference and then others moving into utopian abstraction. It is an immense body of work and one that is completely captivating. He has made painting relevant in a modern world where painting has been to a large part compromised. His art practice delves into the questions-what are the limits of painting? What is the relationship between painting and photography? What are the limits of vision? Inspirational.

The National Gallery at Trafalgar Square is home to many of the world’s great paintings. It is indescribable to talk of the collection here that dates from the 13^th to the 20^th Century. Caravaggio, Rubens, Poussin, Van Dyck, Velázquez, Claude, Rembrandt, Cuyp, Vermeer, Leonardo, Cranach, Michelangelo, Raphael, Holbein, Bruegel, Bronzino, Titian, Veronese, Duccio, Uccello, van Eyck, Lippi, Mantegna, Botticelli, Dürer, Memling, Bellini, Canaletto, Goya, Turner, Constable, Ingres, Degas, Cézanne, Monet, Van Gogh, John Singer Sargeant are among the collection. The gallery holds over 2300 paintings. Richter referenced Titian and made a copy of one of his paintings. His comment about the painter and his style after trying to emulate it was the era of the master painter could never be visited again. After seeing a room of Titian’s and the sheer virtuosity of his painting you can very well believe this.

St Martins in the Field is a church by Trafalgar Square. It has been a church since the 12^th Centruy and in its present form since 1721. A Roman burial site was discovered here dating to the 3^rd Century. The church has been hosting musicians since the 17^th century and we were lucky to see two performances in this most beautiful building. The building has undergone a 36 million pound renovation and it shows. The gleaming plasterwork, the wonderful space and the gilded Corinthian columns. Underneath is a crypt with grave markers dating to the time the church was actually in the fields. The two performances were magical in this setting-the church is quite small and we were very near the front. The first was Warren Mailey Smith on Piano. He was charming and a virtuoso. He played Mozart-Sonata in F major, Chopin-Berceuse, Chopin-Ballade No 1, Chopin-Scherzo No 3, Beethoven-Moonlight Sonata, Liszt-Rigoletto and Gershwin-Rhapsody in Blue. He received a standing ovation.

The second performance was The Festive Orchestra of London, with Violins, Violas, Cello, Bass and Harpsichord. They played JS Bach-Concerto for Two Violins in D minor, W A Mozart-Salzburg Divertimento No 3 in F, J Pachelebl-Canon and Gigue in  D, Vivaldi-Concerto for Four Violins in B minor and then the complete Four Seasons by Vivaldi. Inspirational and haunting. Another standing ovation. The orchestra were all young and obviously enjoying playing in this majestic location and with such as appreciative audience.

The Royal Opera House is in Covent Garden. We queued early to buy our tickets to the performances of The Royal Ballet. The queue of course was orderly but only 5 people in front of us and we were able to get stall tickets overlooking the stage and the orchestra pit. The Opera House is a wonderful place to visit and even better to enjoy a performance of Ballet. The performance was an eclectic mix of three discreet ballets-Limen, Marguerite and Armand and Requiem. Two contemporary and one traditional ballets. The performers were sublime, athletically and aesthetically and watching the orchestra and choir perform in time with the dancers truly magical. Being so close gave an insight into the physical capabilities required to perform at this level. The dancers make impossible actions look graceful and elegant. There were two intervals and this allowed time for champagne and a look at the atrium where the major bar is located. Alex James from Blur was having a drink there. The third piece Requiem has been performed comparatively few times in England as it was thought to be an inappropriate use of music. It was an incredibly moving ballet, beautifully performed with a haunting choir.

To complete our tour of special locations to be an audience in we secured tickets to see the Royal Philharmonic orchestra perform at the the Cadogan Hall in Chelsea-right around the corner from our flat. The hall was built in 1908 on a Byzantine style, for the Church of Christ Scientist and has been completely remodeled and is now owned by the Cadogan family-the largest land owning family in Chelsea. As you can imagine the building is divine and has been sympathetically updated as a venue. The orchestra performed En Saga by Sibelius, Violin Concerto No 1 by Bruch and Symphony No 4 by Brahms. Breathtaking and spectacular come to mind as the monumental finale washes over you.

Luckily we waited for a sunny day to visit Richmond and Kew. After coffee at the wonderful la Botega in Chelsea we headed off on the district line to Richmond. Richmond is an historic part of London and with its position on the Thames strikingly beautiful. There are numerous great trees of England here-vast canopies and immense girths. Henry VII, VIII and Elizabeth I all kept a residence here. It is so close to London yet has the feeling of being completely in the country. After exploring and eating a hearty and cheap meal at Portofino in Richmond we walked along the Thames to Kew Gardens. Kew Gardens are overwhelming. One in eight of the world’s plants are here. On a cloudless sunny day there are few if any places in the world you would rather spend a day. Sir Joseph Banks so familiar to Australians as he was on board James Cook’s ship the Endeavour changed the nature of the gardens and put in place the framework for it to become a world heritage site. Temperance House and Palm House are quite wonderful glasshouses. Temperance House began in 1859 and finished in 1899 is 17 metres high and houses a 170-year-old Chilean palm that has reached the apex of the building. The Palm house is considered the most important Victorian iron and glass structure left in the world.

After visiting Jermyn Street and Saville Row to see what the best dressed are wearing we caught up with Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy at the Curzon Chelsea. This film version after the book and TV series is set in London with references to Berlin. Film is always a great travelogue.

“For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to move.”

-Robert Louis Stevenson

London Calling

The last night in Rome we drank champagne on the cobblestones outside our flat. There was some beer excess to requirements so we gave it to our next-door neighbors who took chairs outside every night. There was a chorus of grazie, prego. The night air was sweet and warm and the sky turned from a rich sky blue to ultramarine. We watched the passers by, the vespas, the shop owners and luxuriated in the final night here.

The first day of inclement weather in Rome was fortunately the day of travel to London. To reach London there was a total of 2 cab rides, two trains rides, one bus ride and one plane trip. Two customs and 4 passport checks later we arrived in London. There needs to be an apology to Heathrow. Our earlier trip through Heathrow, only to transfer to Amsterdam was awful. Clearing customs and immigration was fast, efficient and polite. We caught the express to Paddington in record quick time. Our cab driver was from east London-it is always a pleasant experience how knowledgeable and friendly London cabbies are. The drive from Paddington to Chelsea bought back memories and is a reminder of England’s blending of old and new. We went past Hyde Park, the National Geographic Society building with the sculptures of Livingstone and Scott, the Natural History Museum with it s new glass façade, the Michelin building and onto Chelsea with its rows of Georgian and Victorian terraces and gated parks.

The first days in London have been full of walking and getting acquainted to our new accommodation. We are in the Chelsea Cloisters on Sloane Avenue. The apartment is tiny but beautifully appointed and clean and from the sixth floor windows affords views over the chimney pots. The area cannot be beaten for convenience-next door to a Sainsbury’s, a dry cleaner and laundry and five minutes to Kings Road, the Victoria and Albert Museum, South Kensington Station, and a bevy of pubs and restaurants. We have eaten a true variety of food-Dim Sum, Lebanese, Italian deli (authentic) and diner. We are truly missing the magnificent coffee available at Barnum Cafe in Rome but are enjoying the range of different food. We have made up for missing out on coffee by drinking the wonderful Bitter beer. The nights are considerably cooler than Rome so there is a need to be better prepared when venturing out.

In our wanders we went into Northcote Gallery to look at the beautiful paintings by Gil Rocca-atmospheric oils of London parks at night. We were fortunate to wander in as we were able to have a great discussion with the curators there and not only did they let us know Art London was on they gave us free tickets as well. We traversed Kings Road and headed to Art London after first stopping at a photographic exhibition. The exhibition Decca 1962-71 was a series of prints made of the Rolling Stones by all of the iconic rock photographers. To the sound of the Stones being played LOUD in the background-as they should-we were able to see these beautiful vintage prints.

Art London is a major fair where all major galleries bring pieces from their highest profile or most known artists to sell and show. The venue in the grounds of the Royal Chelsea Hospital was vast. There was so much to see and so much talent on display. Richard Whadcock stands out-multiple glazings and muted colours. The grounds of the Hospital are extraordinary. There is a cemetery attached which we walked through. As we were leaving a man in a red tunic and black hat and resplendent in medals came over to talk to us. “ You missed the most important grave”. It turns out the cemetery is for British army pensioners. Bill is a resident of the home here and takes on the role of tour guide. You need to receive a British military pension and have no dependents to be able to stay. He showed us the oldest grave from the 1600”s as well as Dennis Thatcher’s. There are places for 400 veterans in this most regal of nursing homes.

The Victoria and Albert Museum is one of the great museums in the world. It is impossible to digest what is on offer in one visit. It can make you feel a little insignificant seeing the work created by such brilliant individuals. The Jewellery area alone covering 1500 years of creation is breathtaking. The complexity and beauty of the items and the importance culturally awe inspiring. And this is only one spot. There is an area covering all the major religions and their use of gold and silver for their artifacts. The great part of the V and A is it is a teaching museum as well and describes the process of achieving the results. The antiquities are a sight to see-you may think we have had enough of antiquities after being in Rome and Berlin but there is always one more column to admire. The visiting exhibition is on modern British design and the use of advanced 3d computer applications to help in the construction process.

Roma – the final chapter

Sitting here in Campo di Fiori reflecting on our time in Rome. Firstly RIP to Steve Jobs, the Apple visionary who changed so much in the modern world we live in. I am writing this blog on a trusty Mac book pro, happily connected to the net. Our barista at the wonderful Barnum café, when asked how he was, replied, “Disappointed”. This is always his reply but today he meant it. It was the death of Steve Jobs and the worldwide impact on all of us-even those who use other platforms-as the inventiveness forced everyone to up the ante in the idea of technology and how it could be harnessed. In Rome you are quite often in awe-from the Roman era, through to the Renaissance and beyond. The city breathes its antiquity. The creative genius that was mustered to impel this city forward and to help sustain the idea of Rome. Many people have asked who are the Bernini’s, the Michelangelo’s, and the Raphael’s of the modern world. In many ways you would have to say the people of this level of genius people the technology universe and Steve Jobs was at the summit. So many of us owe him so much for allowing us to unleash whatever potential we have.

There have been so many highlights over the last few days in Rome. Some gastronomical, some aesthetic, some emotional. We have eaten at some truly delightful places-indeed it will be difficult to return to a world where you cannot walk to your destinations. Although the cobblestones do wear you out. Roman woman of course do not have this problem and can walk gracefully in high heels without missing a beat. Enoteca Romana Provincia serves food all supplied from the region. Meats, vegetables, salad and wine sourced locally and all prepared onsite. The freshness and flavour superb. Al Bric is a stones throw away from our apartment is an intimate, beautifully appointed restaurant with an exceptional wine list.  On the walls are wine maker lids from all over the world-one being Opus One from California; we have had the pleasure of drinking. They freshly make all their breads and pastas and you can tell the difference immediately. Their Amatriciana was delicious. We have seen a movie being made on the streets behind the Piazza Navonna. All lights and extras, a concourse condition Fiat 500, crew, director, and actors. We have enjoyed finding some of the local haunts, always more interesting, where as an outsider you are one amongst equals.

And of course we have to talk about the art. From the magnificence of the Galleria Borghese, quite simply the best small museum in the world. And by a quirk of fate we were allowed to stay in the museum indefinitely. This is a building to be awe struck in. The Bernini’s and Caravaggio’s alone are priceless, before getting to the Cannova sculpture, the Roman mosaics and sculpture, the ceiling murals and the wall decoration. And this is not talking of the house itself sitting in a park setting. Villa Farnesina, in Trastevere, is a Palazzo on a monumental piece of land by the banks of the Tiber. It’s history is rich, as of course have the owners been, and the legacy is the building but more importantly a series of magnificent Raphael murals based on the myth of Cupid and Psyche. The paintings adorn the roof and walls of the loggia that is now enclosed to protect the work. The buildings and gardens have been extensively refurbished over the last few years. The palazzo was originally built for a banker, Agostino Chigi and was later purchased by the Farnese family.

We were able to see an exhibition-Todo O Nada- of Mario Testino’s fashion and personal photography in a converted palazzo on the Corso. This extraordinary building has been converted into a gallery. The exhibition is a celebration of the beautiful, from the woman photographed to the sumptuous backgrounds and the exquisite clothes. Testino has an ability to relax his subjects and to create images full of irony and strength. The exhibition was designed beautifully with large prints and deep brown walls. After the Borghese it was so empty! Mostly we had each print to ourselves, which allowed plenty of time to absorb the qualities of each image. You could probably say photography is sculpture of light and this shows what is possible.

In another Palazzo there was a retrospective of the celebrated American painter Georgia O’Keefe with photographic images from her husband Alfred Stieglitz. This was an exhibition celebrating the modernist movement as well as the southwestern landscape O’Keefe revered so much and which became such a rich vein of inspiration.

We spent time in Santa Maria de Popolo admiring the qualities of the Caravaggio’s. This church with its array of personal chapels is a serene oasis in the sea of people and commerce outside the doors. Caravaggio’s use of light was so unusual compared to his contemporaries and 500 years later the paintings are still captivating.

Walking at night and in the morning Rome is wonderfully empty of people and the shops are closed. The Vatican at night is virtually silent and empty. Standing on the colonnade stones and seeing the columns as one reminds you of Bernini’s genius. The day is a full spectrum of life and you are a part of this throng of humanity but at night you can reflect on the experience of being in such a unique place.

Arrivederci!

Rome gallery

Some views from walks we have done. The Palatine Hill, The Baths of Caracalla, along the Tiber and in Trastevere.

 

for Marley our four legged friend

It has come to our attention one of our members is of the four legged variety-so for equity we include an image solely for Marley the dog.

Rome days

What a few days we have had in Rome. Firstly 12 people for dinner in the cellar of the wine bar and restaurant Roscioli, on Via Giubbonari, just off the Campo Di Fiori. The night was great fun and an abundance of food and wine. The food and half of the wine were sourced from the region. The quality of the food and wine was excellent and the waiters made it a truly memorable night. Everyone had descended on Rome from afar for a few days together and an opportunity to celebrate and tell travel stories. Shared experiences in beautiful locations will remain a highlight of this trip. And the broad range of ages and experiences allowed for many engaging conversations. After dinner we found a small bar on the other side of Campo for further revelry. Over the next few days everyone dispersed onto further adventures in Russia, Venezia, Amalfi and Croatia. We met a friend from Umbria, ate at the Alla Rampa and spent a few hours in the Pincio overlooking Rome and enjoying the cool breezes and shade from the trees.

You could say it has been a festival of the p’s-pasta, pizza, pastries, pietas, piazzas, palazzos, penises and painters. But then you would have to add coffee, sculptors, architects, poets, romantics, wine, vespas and designers. In the street we are in-Via Cappallari-there are graphic designers, jewellery makers, potters, door makers, woodworkers, fashion designers, restaurants, small bars, and bookstores. Apparently our street was the street of the hat makers. This is a very small medieval street. The ground floors are kept for business and there are apartments above.  We have found a wonderful café, bar and pizza restaurant all within a 2 minute walk from our apartment. We have found it takes a little while to find your way around and to start finding the local and more contemporary places. The café-Barnham-would not be out of place in Melbourne and plays great music. Great coffee and a seat in the alcove at the front of the shop for 1 euro. The area between Piazza Navona and Campo De Fiori is a haven of the fashionable and full of small boutiques. They are all frequented mainly by Italians-this is the best way to find if places are any good. It takes time to get used to the Italian volume of eating. It is impossible to maintain indefinitely. Anti pasta, primi, secondi, dolce, wine, coffee. Luckily it is not considered impolite to order one course at a restaurant any more.

Last night we went on a night tour of our own making through the streets of Rome. Through Piazza Farnese and a look into the beautiful gardens of Palazzo Farnese. This oasis in such a densely populated area is quite something. Lush green lawns, deciduous trees, palms and enormous walls covered in Virginia Creeper. Then over the SIsta bridge into Trastevere and a look at the Villa Farnesina. We have been fortunate to have seen churches in action-a wedding in Santa Maria del Popolo and an evening mass in Santa Maria de Trastevere complete with choir and incense. To see these buildings-so often considered museums of painting and sculpture-used for human events was very moving. The Santa Maria Del Popolo is extraordinarily rich with artwork-Bernini, Caravagio, Pintuchio and Bramante are some of the artists who have work residing here. The church in Trastevere is ancient and beautiful. It dates back to the 3^rd century and may have been the first to celebrate mass. The magnificent Byzantine mosaics date to the 12^th Century. Trastevere was a working class area and has become more bohemian. It is packed with bars, restaurants and boutiques. Rome has an abundance of small clothes shops-indeed it would be easy to spend your travel budget on the beautiful fashion on offer. Small shops abound offering exquisite and stylish clothes. After Trastevere we walked along the Tiber eating our gelati. Rome at night- out of the major sites-is empty of tourists and quite magical. Friends who left us at 3am on Thursday after Roscioli found Piazza Navona and the Spanish steps silent and magnificent. 

We walked over Rome’s oldest standing bridge to Isola Tiberina, the island that can be easy to miss. At the northern end of the island is a remnant of a bridge dating to 170 BC. The water of the Tiber rushes past here as the river splits around the island. The church of Chiesa di San Giorgio in Velabro, incorporates original 3^rd Century pagan buildings, 4^th Century eastern motif and an 7^th Century Basilica to produce a breathtaking blending of structures. In front of the church is the Roman Arch of Janus-the only triumphal arch preserved in Rome. This use and reuse of materials makes Rome so special and seeing it at night and on your own is really the only way to do it. This area behind the Palatine is also the home to some spectacular apartment buildings-they are beautifully proportioned and have the added bonus of looking over the imperial forum. We walked through the Capitoline and onto the Jewish quarter that was alive with restaurants. At the Teatro Marcello-an ancient Roman site-there was a concerto being performed under three of the oldest standing roman columns and surrounded by broken roman buildings. We watched in awe as the musicians performing Mozart, Schubert and Brahms filled this space with sound. I think, for those of us not accustomed to walking around a built environment so old it always takes your breath away. As we meandered our way back to our apartment we found a hidden bar-Baladin Open-tucked in a tiny lane. Inside it was contemporary and filled with young Romans, eating and drinking. And unusually it was a home to hundreds of beers, both on tap and in bottles from all over the world. 

Roman Holiday

We have found the most sublime bakery at the corner of our street. Forno Campo Di Fiori has a selection of the most delectable pastries, pizza and breads. For our breakfast today we purchased a number of pastries and a ham and cheese treat straight from the oven-the baker said it was belissimo and after tasting it we had to agree. From there we walked to the Jewish quarter for coffee, standing at the bar and luxuriating in the aroma and buzz of the little café. The Jewish quarter is a wonderful maze of streets and surprisingly empty of people considering how close it is to the city and the great coffee. We are always aware that Rome is awash with tourists and it must come at a significant inconvenience to the locals. Drinking standing up at the counter is an Italian tradition and reduces the cost of your coffee by two thirds-and this is how most Italians take their coffee. We then walked to the Capitoline museum to meet friends and visit one of world’s great museums. While waiting we ate the remaining pastries and sat enjoying the space and looking over the Marcus Aurelius statue to Rome. 

The Capitoline is a truly wonderful way to spend a day or more if you have the time. It is simply overwhelming taking in the centuries of Roman antiquities. Rome is a most magnificent pile of rocks. The original bronze statue of Marcus Aurelius, the collossal heads and feet, the Romulus and Remus bronze, the Dying Gaul statue, the view over the forum, the Caravaggio-the list goes on and on. And the building itself is a feast for the eyes. There was an exhibition displaying the tradition of the death masks. When we had finished looking, reading, photographing and drawing we took respite in the Terrace Café sitting atop the building with uninterrupted views over Rome and all the domes. Eating our paninis and freshly squeezed orange juice and reflecting on a great day.

We were lucky to have been invited to lunch with our friend’s Italian friend. He picked us up at the Sisto Bridge and drove us first to Trastervere and then onto Aventino when the restaurant he had chosen was not open. This area is a little out of the city centre and mostly residential. The treat we had when we stopped was absolutely sensational. The pasta, wine and desserts were superb. The speciality is a pepper and cheese pasta that the waiters mix at the table. Artery hardening goodness. The restaurant Felice A Testaccio, Via Mastor Giorgiio 29, was filled with Italians and impossible to find without a car and someone to navigate you there. It was without peer to the food you generally get in Rome wandering in off the street. Having a native speaker made the whole experience painless and gave us an opportunity of tasting a modern Italian cuisine-devoid of waiters in hand me down jackets and bow ties. No haggling was required to fill this restaurant. As always with new cities it takes a little research to truly identify the types of restaurants, cafes and bars you might want to frequent. And Rome is no different. Perhaps more so because of the sheer abundance of eateries. You can waste a lot of time trying to identify places of quality.

We are fortunate that we have friends in Rome (all visiting on their way elsewhere) at the moment to share the experience with. We all met at the Pantheon to catch up and hear all the travel stories and new experiences. The Pantheon with its six metre walls and stripped, decayed elegance is still an awe inducing site-no matter how many times you see it. In our haste to find somewhere to sit and talk we ate at a place that had English, German and Italian menus-indeed you needed to be careful what you ordered. On the whole though it was ok but the companionship was worth any price. In the evening wandering around-and Rome is a city that rewards evening exploration-we found a bar overlooking the Temple of Hadrian. What remains is a row of columns built into a more modern building-late at night over a cold beverage is an atmospheric delight to behold.

The Eternal City

We’ve arrived in Rome. We’ve been here a few days now. We are finishing the blog getting ready to venture back into Rome-this most engaging and romantic of cities. It is noisy, congested and warm. On our first night here, after settling into our flat in a small lane just off Campo de Fiori, we went for a stroll to explore our immediate area and surrounds. Along the way we feasted on pizza, calamari and beer. We found ourselves in Piazza Navonna at 8.30. It was packed with tourists, Italians- lovers, families and large groups of young people, buskers and hawkers selling gadgets and dubious artwork, strolling, eating and drinking, milling about admiring the Bernini fountains and the Palazzo and the other buildings surrounding the piazza. From inside the Museo De Roma we heard the unmistakeable sounds of jazz. Inquiring further we discovered a concert was being held in the inner couryard of the museum. As we were early we purchased our tickets and headed to our front row seats. The jazz was a mixture of classics and newer work-you really could not get a better place to listen to music.

We are always ready to spend a day walking and working directions in cities. On our first day, we started with superb coffee and pastries at Cafe Farnese-overlooking the Piazza and the Palazzo Farnese. Rome is a city where it is always possible to get lost no matter how familiar you are-and of course you like to head off the well worn paths. Tour groups have multiplied since we were last here and you pick the times of days to miss these suffocating hordes with the umbrella wielding guides. What was originally planned as a gentle amble took us to Campo Di Fiori, Piazza Navonna, the Pantheon, San Luigi del Francesi and the Carravagios, Collonade of Marcus Aurelius, the Trevi Fountain, Spanish steps and the Piazza Del Popolo. It was a full day. We ate a delicious pasta a street back from the Campo Di Fiori. There are so many places to eat you need to be careful in choosing where to eat because the quality varies dramatically and you can always find yourself in the hands of one of Rome’s notoriously difficult waiters. Friends arrived from a day of celebrating-straight off the plane from Australia and whisked off to a day of eating and drinking with an Italian family. Moments like these are always to be treasured. The private lives of Italians are a wonderful mixture of warmth and generosity. Most visitors here only to get to see the public side of Italy. We enjoyed chatting and drinking at the edge of Campo de Fiori.