We have been thwarted by the weather. As I write this the heavy dark clouds are rolling in and the first drops of the day have started. The first stage of our Amsterdam trip was perfect. The last part has seen some wild weather. Wet, windy and cold. Throw in a number of spectacular thunderstorms with streaks of lightning and you get the idea gentle touring was off the cards. We had a few plans to adventure further out of Amsterdam and to try a few walks and bike rides but the horizontal, torrential downpours paid heed to that.
So what have we done? Well we have enjoyed our wonderful apartment overlooking the Noordermarket. We have met and had some insightful discussions with local Dutch residents-one of the benefits of staying in a more local neighbourhood- and have spent time in some very comfortable cafes, restaurants and bars-that Amsterdam has in abundance. As well as getting out and about when the rain was manageable. And we are compiling a to do list to post here on what we consider essential Amsterdam activities. We again went to the excellent organic market across the street and bought produce for a home cooked dinner and multiple other meals. The berries are sweet and full of flavour. We acquainted one of the sellers with the idea of an apple turnover-he said to us it was a new English word for him.
One of the finds was a Hofje right in the downtown next to a giant Espirit store. A hofje is a Dutch word for a courtyard with almshouses around it. They have existed since the Middle Ages. There are Hofjes spread out all over inner Amsterdam and we have spent time exploring them. This hofje-Begijnhof- dates to the mid 1300’s and was built to house single women doing good deeds who did not want to become nuns. This particular one has had a varied history. Originally catholic it was ceded to the Church of England and now there is a Church of Scotland Chapel. It had become run down by the 1980’s and was rejuvenated and the houses are again rented to single women. It is an oasis in the city. When you enter the gates the sounds of the city disappear. You don’t realize there are as many green spaces in Amsterdam from the street. Many are hidden behind facades or houses. Another we visited is only a few doors up from us-Het van Brienenhofje-the almshouses were originally to house the poor. The buildings surrounding the courtyard housed a brewery until the late 18th century; the courtyard's namesake converted them into almshouses in 1804.We visited the Museum Van Loon. This is a traditional Grand Canal house, complete with formal garden and coachhouse. It was built in 1671 together with the identical twin house on the parcel next to it by the architect Adriaen Dortsman for one of the original founders of the Dutch East India Company. On the top of the façade, four figure sculptures were placed, representing Mars, Minerva, Vulcan, and Ceres, personifications of war, justice, fire, and agriculture – four sources of the owner’s wealth. Interestingly the houses on either side are still used. Some have been converted to apartments or businesses. The spaces in the house are enormous. Double height ceilings, ornate plasterwork and patterned walls. The upkeep on these properties must be prodigious.
We were fortunate to find an arch to shelter under as another deluge struck. Our portable umbrellas were not up to the task.
Another tip from a friend had us looking in the Frozen Fountain-a design store on Prinsengracht. The work is again clever, innovative and technically excellent. Because of the limitations in space the Dutch designers create the most interesting space saving devices. It was a cornucopia of beautiful products. The shop also had the steepest staircase. Furniture, textiles, and home wares.
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